That looks a lot more like a chickadee.

👋 bye bye Lloyd. Weird to think of these fixtures that seem monolithic and permanent vanishing.

Not as extensive as GOG but zoom platform does drm free as well.

https://www.zoom-platform.com/

I always thought koin tower looked neat. 👌

Ah I forgot Hawthorne also has the towers on it. Steel bridge’s would have been closer together. My bad.

Hey Steel Bridge 👋

Nice colors and comp.

Those sites are where I get most of my lenses, FWIW. I really like that they check them and rank them on condition then give a several month warranty on most grades. UPP and MPB show actual lens you’re getting on each listing as well. KEH doesn’t but their descriptions and grades are usually accurate. UPP is my favorite for price and quality but have a much more limited rotating stock of gear. I’ve bought multiple things from all three though.

First and foremost… I would check into buying used from a reputable reseller that guarantees their equipment:

https://usedphotopro.com/

https://www.mpb.com/

https://www.keh.com/

IDK where you’re located geographically, but a couple of those do ship to different countries so they should have you covered.

As for your specific camera needs, it’s going to depend on the setting you’re taking these pics in. It’s less about subject (nature, graffiti, consenting butts) and more about speed and and light levels.

You’re right that taking a frozen moment from a moving vehicle you need a fast shutter (this is different from a “fast lens”). Most modern digital cameras should have no problem getting a fast enough shutter speed… something that tops out at 1/2000 or 1/4000 should be plenty. The farther away it is, the easier it will be.

Nature pictures like landscapes are generally pretty easy to shoot. They don’t move around much so you have plenty of time to set things up and find your scene. Nature pictures like animals… that’s a whole other story and takes specialized stuff usually, depending on the animal. The good thing is that with interchangeable lens cameras, some of that is just the lens and can be upgraded when you figure out which niche you’re trying to fill.

When you get into these types of cameras, you are really buying into a lens system… that is a good place to start thinking about it. Will you be able to get lenses you like for a price you can deal with. Often that means not only how are the first party lenses, but are there good third party lenses. So take canon for example… great first party pro lenses, crap entry level lenses. Their DLSR has access to stuff like Sigma which are really good… their mirrorless they more or less banned 3rd party so you’re sol. So a little research on that is a good idea.

So my suggestion, personally, is to look at micro-fourthirds flagship cameras from the last decade and flagship DLSR as well. You will get a lot more bang for your buck and quality from an older flagship pro camera for the same price as an entry level new camera. There is a hidden price advantage for M43 cameras as well… the lenses are cheaper, lighter, and since it’s an open format there’s lots of choices from multiple manufacturers. If you get an Olympus camera, the lenses work on Lumix. If you get a TTartisans M43 lens it works on both. So you have a lot of choices for very inexpensive. Basically all M43 cameras have In Body Image Stabilization as well… which is really nice for getting rid of camera shake while taking handheld shots in lower light.

As for software. There is plenty of stuff that will work well on linux… and lots of them are likely in your repos already or have flatpak or appimage. I really like RawTherapee for processing RAW images. https://www.rawtherapee.com/ There are some good scripts to get Affinity Photo working on linux these days as well such as https://github.com/ryzendew/Linux-Affinity-Installer … just read thru the info thoroughly, but it’s basically run shell script and click buttons on the GUI.

If you’re just wandering around doing street photography… there is no end to nice places. Check out the water front. Wander down by OMSI. Go check out the Hawthorne shopping district.

If you’re looking for places to GO… the zoo or the Japanese Gardens are must visit spots. Also you can go IN OMSI and check out the science museum.

It’s going to depend on a few things:

1. What you think you’ll what to shoot
2. Budget
3. Size / weight requirements 4ish. Preferred brand or existing camera equipment

Personally I really like micro four thirds stuff for a mix of small but versatile. It’s also great because if you’re looking for bang for buck on a budget, older M43 cameras can be gotten used for really reasonable prices relatively.

You just need to maintain a relationship between Time And Relative Dimension In Space. 🟦

Looks like he’s having an existential crisis over it too… 🦆

Yeah. The tilting back lcd is a must for me, especially if there is no EVF. So I’ve been looking at the e-pl6 because I can get it fairly cheap with a warranty from a reseller. It doesn’t have all the features but it does look promising. I just keep looking at the ones for 100 more and they have some newer sensors and screens etc. Always go round and round on this stuff heh.

With the e-m10 and the gx80 having similar feature sets… what is making you stick with the e-m10 more?

For walking around… I want something I can walk around in the city. I don’t really do street photography per se since I don’t like photographing people… but I do like landscape and architectural and just documenting my life sort of things. I like nature walks and parks and such as well… not really hiking… more casual stuff.

My experience is moderate. I started with 35mm in the 80’s and 90’s and worked as an assistant to a portrait and event photog in the early 00’s. So I am not a pro but I’m not new to using a camera. Like I said, I have am om-d e-m5 ii now, which is great but I’d like something with a flip up screen and with a slimmer profile than the SLR body style of the e-m5 as well as a bit less weight. Since I already have several m43 lenses that cover a gamut of focal lengths (7.5mm FE, 14-42mm, 45mm f/1.8, 40-150mm) it feels like just slotting a small m43 body into my kit will be a no brainer. I plan on picking up some small primes soon as well, so all the more reason that sticking with just adding a new m43 body for versatility makes sense. I primarily shoot in manual mode, so having some physical controls to adjust those quickly would be nice, but since this is a secondary body it isn’t a deal breaker if it doesn’t have dual dials.

Yeah… some of the models that are popular have insane prices… and it’s gonna probably get worse what with the apocalypse and all. :(

Looks like a gx7 is about 300-350, a gx85 is 450-500, a gx8 is 600-750, and gx9 is 850-1050. Like… I see a G9 II on the page for 1300… IDK why some of those rangefinder models from several years ago are so high priced. smh.

Yeah… I’ve had my eye on the gx8 for a while but it’s still more than I want to pay. The gx9 is like $900-1000 used… way outside what I’m looking at.

I was originally looking at the olympus e-pl6 because it’s about 200… but I started seeing that for just a little more if I pushed I might get noticeable feature boost… so I’m considering a little more to get nicer features. The gx7 seems like it’s got good quality and checks most of the boxes (slightly larger than I wanted but that’s ok)… but I’m stuck in a cycle of comparing it to all the stuff in it’s range.

Have you used the gx7 at all to compare to the gx85 / gx9? Also, how is the focus peaking on lumix cameras. I’d like to be able to use manual lenses but I really like focus peaking to be an option.

Did Roko write this?

Frequently you can get discount codes from the creators on there. I think I paid $20 this year.

Nebula. It’s a video streaming service that is ad free and directly supports the creators.

https://nebula.tv/

This is something that bugs me slightly about my 18-200 Nikon F DX (APS-C) lens. It is an awesome lens that I’m currently taking everywhere, but I wish it was sharper at times. I guess I will need to get used to switching lenses more often than I currently do. I also might want to experiment with sticking more to fixed focal lengths again. I noticed I always shoot at 28, 35, 50, 85, and very occasionally 105, 135mm full frame equivalent. 300mm or longer for wildlife.

Yeah, you definitely start to find the spots where you need to fill in the gaps. I find that the middle of the focal range is where I notice the biggest need for primes. That 14-42mm is handling most of the “wide to normal” for me right now since I’m not doing full on portraits with this particular camera… if I was I’d probably look into something in the 35mm or 55mm super fast lenses specifically for that task. With birding I’ve never been able to deal with primes since things change so quickly… I’m constantly using the full range of my 150-600m on my canon… they never stay in one spot lol. I think for a “walking around EDC lens” the 14-42mm has been fantastic. Olympus lenses have surprised me with their sharpness on non-Pro level stuff. Something to think about if you’re considering fast lenses in a range and wanting “most bang for your buck” is to consider what the difference is between them in aperture. That 14-42mm at it’s widest is f/3.5… that’s roughly 2 stops of light and not a ton of DoF in practice. At it’s widest though it’s f/5.6 so you’re talking about 3.5 stops of light and a more noticeable change in DoF. I kept hearing about the 20mm primes and such… but since I already had this zoom it felt like it wasn’t worth it because I was getting most of what I wanted out of it. I’m still considering that 7artisans 55mm f/1.4 II for a portrait lens because it’s gonna offer more of a difference from what I have, but I don’t really need it right now.

I’m just rambling off on a tangent though… sounds like you’ve got it figured out. :)

I would also suggest start looking around for extra batteries. There are some better brands of 3rd party batteries that people seem to like. I’ve heard really mixed stuff about wasabi… some people love it and some people say it sucks. I’ve had good luck with neewer and kastar so far. Reason being two fold… 1. if you bought used the battery is also gonna be used and have lower life than it did when it was new and 2. mirrorless cameras use battery much faster than DSLR. I picked up a kastar 2 pack of batteries with a dual charger for my EM5ii for $22 total online. It’s been really nice so I can either carry a spare or just swap the low battery for a new one when I get home and not have to wait for any charging. Also aftermarket chargers all seem to work off USB-C which is really convenient as well.