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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: July 1st, 2023

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  • I thought I’d add that it looks like it’s overextruded. So much that the filament is being “pushed” out and curling back around the nozzle.

    It could be the e steps, flow rate, etc but it could also be that your Z offset needs to be adjusted back away a smidge.

    That could be part of the inconsistent print since the tool head movement over one section of the bed vs another may be affected by the layer below based on how the filament curled there.

    If you want to do a deep dive into adjusting/calibrating the Ender I did write up a bit here (although that post does relate to Klipper and I mention settings/adjustments for Klipper it starts purely with the physical printer itself and builds on it)

    https://lemmy.world/comment/7904011


  • Roll for intelligence… 16. The progress of the one hit BEG killing spell is 33%

    <many turns later>

    Roll for intelligence… 3. The progress of the one hit BEG killing spell is 96%. That’s the only action you can take on your turn. You better hope the party can stop the army from hitting the power source of this spell before it finishes.

    Roll for intelligence… 5. Since that would be more than 100 the progress of the spell rolls back to 91%.







  • Exactly… this printer is useful honey.

    I can make parts for the printer, accessories for filament management for the printer.

    Halloween decorations… once I get the printer back online when I have this mod finished.

    Parts for another printer.

    Mounts for the brooms… when more filament comes in since I used the last of it for the parts for the new printer.

    Save 450 on a unique appliance part they’re not making anymore which now justifies the thousands I’ve spent on this thing.

    Seriously though. It is a fun hobby and if you want to just print and make things and not tinker there are plenty of good options out there. Me? I like tinkering. It’s a blast.




  • It has its strength. The downside to blender is it’s geometry based unlike Fusion and others that are parametric.

    Where this shines, for example, is when you’re defining a circle with a given radius. If it’s 4mm in a cad program and you export to STL it will be polygon based. But you can adjust the density of the export and, if you need to, scale your cad up 200%, 300%, etc and export again. Always resulting in the closest approximation of that circule in the stl or export. This way you don’t lose any fidelity. Blender does have some great tools for interpolating points in a mesh so it’s not useless either.

    The best analogy I can think of is raster and vector. Doubling the size of a vector doesn’t result in aliasing. But, likewise, doing a high quality image of something photorealistic is not great on vector.

    I use Fusion for cad modeling. The parametric design workflow allows me to adjust measurements, etc and have them show downstream, etc. But if I’m going to import something that’s already an 3d model I’ll use blender and mesh mixer to cleanup the model first.

    I’ve also used just blender when using game assets to pose a model before exporting to a mesh for use in a slicer. Since, again, it’s the tool for the job.









  • Best upgrades for me was the following in order of overall impact

    Klipper
    BTT Skr mini e3v3 board
    Silicon bed spacers
    Klackender mod by KevinAkaSam
    G10 build plate
    Orbiter extruder and dragonfly hotend for direct drive
    Belted Z mod by KevinAkaSam

    More recent EBB36 canbus for the tool head mainly because it frees up some ports on the control board for other things like my Nevermore.

    For overall quality and reliability the following have the biggest impact.

    Ensuring the physical frame is as square as possible. As well as adjusting and shimming things such as folded aluminum foil under the Z extrusions to get them square with the base.

    The board and Klipper are huge since it makes it easier to use the klack probe (Klicky for ender) and the silicone spacers allow me to dial in the screws with adjust_screws.

    And skew correction because my X gantry is twisted (tested that on granite counter top) and after I’ve done everything else to ensure it’s physically right i still had to work around some of it with software.

    Now I can just fire it up and print PLA, ABS (it’s in a grow tent enclosure), PETG and TPU without any issue.

    The g10 plate works great with all of them, Klipper can compensate for any warping, build offset as long as the screws are properly adjusted (which I test every couple of months or after I’ve had a print that really didn’t want to come off.

    I’m building a trident myself right now and I’m using the “Frankender” to do it with really great quality results.