It’s apparently the only thing named for that dude pronounced that way too, Dalhousie University as an example. Wiki page has an etymology section that has some suggestions as to why, it’d sound weird to me though pronounced the other way.

I remember reading all the alleged leaks on freefolk for s8, couldn’t believe they’d be accurate, some of them just seemed too dumb to be real.

By e3, so much of them had been correct (well, at least from the parts of that episode I could see), I just embraced it. Was a far more enjoyable experience for me, at least got me through the remainder of it. Cracks showed before s8 (once they ran out of book material I think is when it stated), but there was so much dumb shit that final season.

We used to do rewatches, my partner hasn’t touched it since then and has said she probably never will, s8 just ruined it for her (she also leaned into the spoilers after e3)

So, I like loose leaf when I can, but will totally use bags, I grew up with Tetley so that’ll always be the tea I’ll use for some basic iced tea. Yorkshire gold reminds me a lot of Red Rose, which is the other really common bag tea (and I swear is what my grandmother uses for her water intake). Recently, have some bags from Genuine Tea, it’s a Canadian brand and some of their blends are pretty good, there’s an elderberry hibiscus one that’s great to just toss a few bags in a pitcher and cold steep.

Going to mention more types of teas rather than brands that I’ve liked in the past, there’s a lot of variety and tea (like quality coffee) can totally have a wide range of flavours depending on region, age, processing etc. By no means an expert, I just like trying things.

I like Lapsang Souchong sometimes, can have a strong smoky flavour, don’t have any more but we had some first flush Darjeeling tea that was fantastic. I had some nice white tea as well, but you need to be careful, turns super unpleasant if you over steep it or have the water too hot, should be floral and lightly fruity, not pine needles.

Otherwise, I personally like oolong and pu’erh tea the best. I tend to brew tea quick with an excess of leaves, but you’ll use the same tea leaves multiple times. Pu’erh can have some earthy subtle flavours, and apparently totally changes as it ages (it’s fermented if I recall).

I do this, I have a toaster oven that lives in my garage solely for shop use. Have some foil to act as a bit of a heat deflector, seems to work well enough.

I wanna say it was something that showed up on my clipboard from KDE connect, may have been part of an error message or status message, should have kept it for preservation purposes

I have zero idea, apparently I managed to pocket comment somehow.

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Spool3D in Calgary sells sheets of FR4 (the flame resistant version of G10) that are bonded to spring steel sheets. I use with a few drops of the nano polymer adhesive they sell but would probably be fine without (A few drops in IPA seems to do the trick for ABS, lets me spread it extremely thin). I used Buildtak for a while and their surfaces are great, but this was a lot cheaper and extremely resistant, plus I like the surface finish it gives (Also I can source domestically, partly the reason I switched)

My partner and I were concerned about that originally but it’s really a non issue for either of us, it’s still way better than not having one.

That’s the predominant one in Canada too, at least in my experience.

Goes with a Chipper Shredder (Woodchipper), sure there’s probably other things named the same way.

I did some testing for some parts for my dad, he keeps bees and lost a shaft support for one of his tools when he was reassembling it, he whipped up a replacement and fired me the stl when I was talking about my printers.

Printing with the shaft in the z needed a lot of supports,

laying it on its “back” was by far the easiest, outside of the support looked a little gross, could have benefitted from supports. Did them all in petg, gave them all to him just so he can get a feel for what 3D printed parts look like as he’s interested in getting one himself (trying to sell him on a v0 if he’s not sure, but kinda thinking about doing a trident)

Synapse link is a pain too if you’re doing everything with as much private networking as possible. Actual setup is quick, but you need a windows machine for the PowerShell libraries needed for the dynamics side of the link, and if you’re just added as a guest to a client tenant, the cmdlets won’t let you login on their tenant, always uses the default tenant as far as I recall and there’s no tenant flag. I’ve set it up a handful of times and once it’s up it works really well, just an annoyance sometimes getting there. Think doing it through event hub has some similar irritations too.

I’ve not had the pain of dealing with fabric extensively, most of the engineers and data scientists I work with hate working with it, everything seems like a halfbaked implementation of stuff in synapse, adf and Power BI premium but somehow worse, and their documentation is increasingly unhelpful.

Should add eduke32 (that’s the repo, site here) for Duke Nukem 3D, believe Ion Fury (which is phenomenal) is built on that, think I’ve seen mention of it working with other build engine games, I’ve used with assets from world tour, it’s a better experience imo.

Gzdoom has some great games built on the engine too (bit of a tangent), Selaco and Hedon both fantastic games.

We are already are, look at season passes, dlc etc, 90+ is the de facto price of a lot of AAA games. They’ll claim going even higher is to support developers or whatever when laying people off en masse and posting even larger quarterly results, it’s pure avarice.

They also tend to sell more copies vs decades ago, which is partly why the $70cad game was so normal for so long IMO.

It’s a right of passage, I switched all my hotends to fixed blocks, accidentally loosened the block once on the older style hotend after torquing correctly and enveloped the thing in petg, it kinda vitrified too or something in the heat, was like glass so no getting that off.

Generally, blobs off of your hotend, estop it and take a look, that’s a huge tell for a leak.

Worth keeping a few spares around, at least for stuff like nozzles, blocks, heaters and probes.

You can muffle the beeper pretty effectively with some tape, the old air fryer we had terrified one of the dogs because of the incessant beeping. My coffee scale by default beeps whenever you touch it, thankfully that’s 100% mutable.

I also hate this.

Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn’t have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it’s super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.

I don’t have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections. Part quality will vary wildly depending on sourcing too, vorons are very diy and open as the draw, but there’s just so much variability from sourcing, mods, assembly etc.

I have z braces on my bear modded mk3s too, things reliable as heck and easy to service.

It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn’t huge, might be exaggerating it.

How much of a heat soak? If you’re going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis’ page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it’s coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I’d personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.

And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that’s a no, don’t of that for example). If that’s a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I’ve found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don’t love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.

Edit: read up on your probe, eddy current based? Sounds really interesting, my first point is probably moot, though possible you could be picking up the texture or if you have strong magnets it could affect it (my bed has an array of strong round magnets, seen others that are just a magnetic sheet), the do call that out in their FAQ.

I was looking through, generally custom macros are in the config folder, unsure if they’ve implemented it differently, here’s the Raise3D repo I found earlier, klipper has some code in c for the microcontroller stuff AFAIK with klippy in python, I’ve not personally dove into the code, just config and macro stuff largely.

Actually digging through a bit, there’s some gcodes in /klippy/gcode.py in the above repo I don’t see in the Mainline Klipper equivalent, like M9999, it might be a start, klippy lives on the host machine.