B. No illegal content.

While this particular community probably would not have an issue with “illegal content”, it still remains an extremely vague depending on where in the world you live. Are we talking about international law or laws in some random community in Texas?

I know that is abused for lots of crap autogenerated YouTube videos.

Not unless a random search takes me there for a non-answer to my obscure question.

Those are good printers. I put about 6 different resin types through them, and did get my optimal settings for fine detail because I was curious. It’s just pointless for what I do, s’all.

But yes, depending on what your goals are for printing, there is a fuck ton of room for speed improvements.

I have a pair of Mono 6ks’s and yeah. Their settings are even across most of the resins in their slicer. I use the same settings between ABS, nylons and clear resins but just for functional prints. (Precision only matters in key spots for me.)

I will say this though: Their base settings work for me, which is super different than what I was used to with FDM.

Lift speed is determined more by the plastic sheet type, and “8k resin” may or may not be a little thinner and that is generally the only difference, if at all. (+8k resin is almost always marketing wank.) nFEP is the most common way to go for the detail/speed tradeoff.

(The Blu nylons are thick as hell though, so the lift speed/dwell can actually matter.)

It’s generic for thicker resins. A higher lift and a short pause is normal so that resin can flow back under the print where it just separated.

Just tune it down for your particular resins.

All good! It’s the same situation as I described and I see that increasing temps did help. It’s good to do a temperature tower test for quality and also a full speed test after that. After temperature calibration, print a square that is only 2 or 3 bottom layers that covers the entire bed at full speed or faster. (It’s essentially a combined adhesion/leveling/extrusion volume/z offset test, but you need to understand what you are looking at to see the issues separately.)

If you have extrusion problems, the layer line will start strong from the corners, get thin during the acceleration and may thicken up again at the bottom of the deceleration curve. A tiny bit of line width variation is normal, but full line separation needs attention.

Just be aware if you get caught in a loop of needing to keep bumping up temperatures as that starts to get into thermistor, heating element or even some mechanical issues/problems.

185C is cold for PLA. It may work for slow prints, but my personal minimum has always been around 200C and my normal print temperature is usually at 215C.

Long extrusions are probably sucking out all the heat from the nozzle and it’s temporarily jamming until the filament can heat up again.

Think of the hotend as a reservoir for heat. For long extrusions, it will drain really fast. Once the hotend isn’t printing for a quick second, it will fill back up really fast. At 185C, you are trying to print without a heat reservoir. I mean, it’ll work, but not during intense or extended extrusions.

So if I just kick a hole in a wall at a friends house, it’s ok to pee into it as well?

Eesh. I was joking.

Generally, thet hate each other. It’s not always the case, but if you put a random cat and a random dog together in the same room, it’s not going to work out well. Also…

Dogs want to be your friend. Cats might consider letting you be their friend, sometimes, when they want something.

Dogs might mourn for an owner that have passed. Cats would eat their dead owners.

Dogs may bark and warn their owners of danger. Cats would sleep through any danger.

All days are cat days.

Future chips not affected by THIS cpu bug yet.

That gave me the idea to toss in a coconut or two into bags this year. I’ll reserve those for the “kids” that are obviously too old for this stuff.

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